Woah, lots of how-to posts all in a row! I hope you’re not getting spoiled 😉 I’m finally getting around to finishing up some of these bathroom projects. Let me start by saying, this vanity is NOT finished. It’s maybe 60% done. So please don’t judge my medicine cabinet by my vanity 😉
Step 1: remove the tall faucets! Other than totally blocking the cabinets from opening, they also seem to think they are fountains, not faucets. Water is gushing out of the top handle instead of the spout! And as they were freebies from my plumber FIL, I chose to just buy new short ones. I’m also planning on staining it a gray-ish color so the wood tones don’t match so much. I’d like the focus to pull on the mirrors rather than the vanity boards.
See what I mean? Womp womp. I’ll be replacing those faucets this weekend so I can fully appreciate the wonder of these massive mirror cabinets.
This was relatively simple to build and pretty darn affordable! Considering you’d pay a hundred bucks for a much smaller wall unit at the store, you can build this double beauty for around $80. Including the mirrors. I used cedar (again! I know) because that’s what we have lying around and it matches the trim. You could use furring strips or pine boards to stain or paint and get a really nice look. Ready for the tutorial?
• 2 – 24″ x 30″ mirrors ($25 each at Home Depot, they come with clips)
• 8 – 1x4x8’s
• 1×2 scraps for trim (optional)
• 2 sets hinges
• 2 cabinet catches
Cuts: (I measured my vanity area between wall plugs to get my length and the lights for height)
• 2 – 1×4 @ 66″
• 4 – 1×4 @ 34.5″
• 10 – 1×4 @ 29″
• 4 – 1×4 @5″
• 4 – 1×2 @ 5″ (optional trim)
• 4 – 1×4 @36″
• 4 – 1×4 @ 23.5″
I started by making the frames for my mirror. Drill pocket holes into your 23.5″ boards and attach to the 36″ boards with pocket hole screws. If you don’t have a pocket hole jig, you can cut 4 pieces at 36″ and miter the edges at 45 degrees and glue and nail the frame together.
Next I installed the mirrors using the provided clips. I had to use 1/2″ cabinet screws so they wouldn’t go through my 3/4″ wood! For some reason I decided it would be a good idea to take a photo from this side instead of the back. Sorry. I have two clips on the long side and one clip on the top and bottom. Don’t over-tighten them or the mirror will shatter. Just get them tight enough that they don’t wiggle around.
Next up was the box! I sandwiched my 66″ boards over the 34.5″ inch sides that were pre-drilled with pocket holes. I measured the width of my mirror (30 3/8) so I placed my center boards 30 3/8″ over from the outer edge then checked to make sure they fit the mirrors. They did!
Shelving! I made a mistake in thinking I could use pocket holes in 5″ of space. Yeah no. Measure up every 9″ (9, 18, 27) for your shelves and start by drilling into the center shelves inside your cabinet openings, BEFORE adding your cabinet shelves. I had to nail mine in and they’re all wonky. Next add your cabinet shelves (at 9″, 18″, & 27″) using pocket holes. At the back of the top, add a support cleat so you can attach the cabinet to the wall.
Now its time to attach your mirrors. I used plain hinges at 5″ from each end. Then I added some cabinet catches to keep them in place.
Locate the studs behind your wall. I propped up my cabinet using three large vegetable cans to keep it at the right height and made sure everything was level. Then I used 2″ screws drilled into wall studs in the support cleat at the top back. I think I’ll add a couple of L brackets at the bottom inside the cabinet since it’s still a bit loose on the wall. But for now, it’s ready to use!