Chunky X Base Table: A How-To

chunky x table tutorial

There’s something about 4×4 lumber that makes furniture look amazing. Maybe it’s the sturdiness, maybe it’s the shape. Whatever it is, I love it! A friend of mine recently asked me to build her a new dining table, and I was happy to oblige. She liked the X-Base Pedestal table I built my sister, but wanted a rectangular shape with a heftier top. So I edited the plans a bit to make two straight bases with a stretcher, and used some posts around planked 1×12’s for a beautiful, solid table. It’s certainly heavy enough to last a lifetime!

chunky-x-table-base

The base uses the same measurements from Ana’s plan. I decided to use 2×6’s for the top and bottom to make it even more sturdy looking.

chunky-table-hardware

Another nice change this time was splurging on pretty hardware. I used 5″ lag bolts instead of screws, and it really does lend the table a professional feel.

chunky-table-top

The top was quick and easy to put together. I just have three 1×12’s planked together with kreg pocket holes, and used the same pocket holes to attach the posts. Then a few more carriage bolts on the sides help keep the posts together.

chunky-x-table-and-bench

This is such a gorgeous set, and may be one I have to re-create for my own dining room! I was happy to build for a friend, and love that it will have a good life in its new home.

You may want to construct the table top and the legs, then move the table into place before connecting the legs to the top. This table will be large and heavy.

Here is the tutorial to build your own Chunky X Base Table:

Lumber:

  • 3 – 2x6x8′
  • 5 – 4x4x8′
  • 3 – 1x12x8′
  • 1 – 2x4x8′
  • 2 – 1x3x8′

Hardware:

  • 44 – 1/4″ x 5″ lag bolts
  • Box of 1 ¼” pocket screws
  • Box of 2½” wood screws (to assemble bases)
  • Wood glue

Tools:

  • Drill
  • Miter Saw
  • Kreg Jig
  • Drill Bits

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×6 @ 30″ cut at a 30 degree angle (top and bottom of table leg bases)
  • 2 – 2×6 @ 30″ cut at normal 90 degrees (spacers for on top of table leg bases)
  • 4 – 2×6 @ 6″ cut at a 45 degree angle (feet)
  • 8 – 4×4 @ 13″ cut at a 45 degree angle (cross bracing for the X shape)
  • 2 – 4×4 @ 21 ¼” (center upright support of the table legs)
  • 3 – 1×12 @73″ (table top)
  • 3 – 1×3 @ 34.5″(cut this after your 1×12’s are attached to be sure of measurement)
  • 2 – 4×4 @ 80″ (long border pieces for table top)
  • 2 – 4×4 @ 34.5″ (cut this after your 1×12’s are attached to be sure of measurement)
  • 1 – 4×4 @ 61″ (stretcher to connect table legs. Cut after legs and table top are built later in instructions).

Instructions:

Important Note: I highly recommend pre-drilling all holes before driving lag bolts or screws. Choose drill bits that are slightly smaller than your screws and lag bolts. This will prevent the wood from splitting.

Lay the 1×12’s on a flat surface.

Connect three  1” x 12” x 73” with several pocket screws as roughly shown below.

Add additional pocket screws along the perimeter of this table top surface for connecting to the 4×4 border lumber. Similar to the photo above (but with only three planks.)

Cut two 4×4’s to the same width as your 1×12’s now that they are joined. The measurement should be close to 34 ½”. Cut your three 1×3 cross pieces to the same width.

Drive two carriage bolts through the corners of the 4″ x 4″ x 80″ lumber into the two 4x4s you just cut. Then secure the three 1×3 cross pieces (using wood glue and/or the 1 ¼” screws) you just cut to the underside of the 1″ x 12″ boards. Space them evenly for the best support, but leave space on the outer edges of your table top for connecting the legs later.

Note: These following photos show assembly of the bench legs, not the table sides. The sides of the table are build similar to these bench legs. The construction is the same, but the main difference is the bench legs are 17¼” tall and the table legs will be are 28 ¼” tall. You’ll also note that the lumber on the benches are made of 2×4’s instead of 4×4’s and 2×6’s.

Use four 2 ½” wood screws driven through the 2″ x 6″ x 30″ top and bottom pieces to connect to the 4″ x 4″ x 21 ¼” upright support.

Attach the 4″ x 4″ x 13″ angled pieces to the top and bottom 2″ x 6″s and the upright supports using lag bolts (two into the top and bottom of each 4″ x 4″ angled into the 2″ x 6″ pieces.)

Attach the 2″ x 6″ x 6″ feet to the bottom of the table legs with four 2 ½” wood screws on each foot.

Repeat for the other table legs. Your table legs should look like this:

Use2 ½” wood screws to attach the 2×6 @ 30″ spacers to the underside of the table top where the legs will eventually attach. (This will elevate the table top so you can see all of the table leg as shown when the table top is secured.)

Measure the inside dimension of the table top from one spacer to the other. Cut the last 4×4 to this length (should be approximately 62″.) Attach the two table legs to the 4″ x 4″ x 62″ stretcher and two lag bolts through each leg and into the stretcher as shown below.

Add the table top and secure the legs to the spacers with 2 ½” wood screws through each leg top into the spacer.

And your table is built!

Time to build the legs. I apologize that Brooke didn’t write the leg post. To build the benches, you can suffer through measuring the pieces to try to fit them together. Or you could build Shanty 2 Chic’s X farmhouse benches which are in the same style.

 

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