Blue Barn Door: How-To

interior barn door

I’ve been lusting over interior barn doors for ages. Ever since I saw their rustic beauty, I knew I had to have one. When we moved into our new home and started living in a master suite with no door to the bathroom, I knew this door would be the perfect solution. After doing a little preliminary research, ordering the hardware would cost us upwards of $100, and waiting on shipping. Well, I’m cheap and impatient, so we came up with another solution. Want to see how to build your own barn door completely from scratch, all for $140, including the hardware? Read on! Supplies:
• 7 – 1x6x8 foot boards (we chose paneling for a beadboard look, but you can always go more rustic)
• 2 – 36 inch metal plates (in the decking section)
• 3/4 inch screws (roughly 20 or so, or longer screws if your boards are thicker)
• Trolley hanger with w/9 bolt (runs about $30)
• Trolley rail (runs about $25)
• scrap 2×4 or 2×6
• lock washers
• nuts
• handle
• L-frame anchor plate
• stain or paint, sandpaper, wood glue, finishing supplies

Step 1 – Design your door layout We chose beadboard paneling boards, which had tongue-and-groove edges. All we did here was run a bead of glue down each groove as we hammered them together. Step 2 – Stain/Paint your door We chose a bold blue stain so the door would really pop. I had to cut it with a little water in the end to get it to fit down into all those tiny grooves and apply with a paintbrush. This was easily the most time-consuming process of creating this door. Step 3 – Attach your door hardware I didn’t take a photo of this, but lay out your metal plate onto your door where you’d like it to sit. Attach at least two screws per board in the plate. The plate has a ton of holes, and it’s up to you whether you’d like to use them all or not. The plate also comes in shiny silver metal, so we sprayed ours with hammered bronze paint before attaching it. Step 4 – Flip door over and finish the opposite side You get a little teaser here because I was bad with my in-process photo taking. We decided to stain the inside of the door a dark walnut color instead of the blue. We liked the surprise and contrast of having two different colored sides, as well as the balance of a wood-toned neutral in our bathroom. Step 4 – Prep your sliding hardware This sucker is a trolley rail that you can pick up at Lowes for $25. Home Depot doesn’t carry them, but you may find it at another hardware store. It’s another shiny silver finish, so we sprayed this with the rustic bronze as well. You’ll first have to figure out how long you want your rail. We needed about 5 feet of it, so my husband used our grinder with a cutting wheel and sliced off about a foot. Now, if your door is in the center of a wall, then you’re totally fine without this little L-bracket. But, if you’re like us and your door is sneaking around in the corner, you’ll have to attach it with some heavy screws. The bright side is that they also serve as a stop before the door smacks into your other wall. You’ll attach one side to your rail, and once you get ready to mount you’ll attach the other to the perpendicular wall. Okay, here’s where things get all mathematical and tricky. You’ll need to find the studs on your wall, and measure from your end point on your rail to where your studs are and mark them. This is because you’re going to have to drill two holes into the rail. One little one for the screw to go through, and a larger one for your drill to fit through. This is so you can screw the rail into the studs without them blocking the trolley mechanism. Make sense? Here’s a visual Step 5  – Attach trolley rail to the wall See how large the hole is on the rail? You can just spot it about halfway down from the Husbane’s hand to the end of it on the left. It’s large so you can fit a drill extension bit through it to drive a screw into the wall behind it. You’ll want to attach it into studs in at least two places, and on the end with the bracket. Check for level. We specifically did not cut down our 8 foot boards until the end here, because we knew we wanted the door to extend past the rail. Step 6 – Measure the new door height, cut excess and attach your 2×4 support Confused yet? Ok, so it’s getting a little tricky now. What we did was first measure exactly how tall we wanted our door to be. Once we had our measurement (which was 2 inches higher than the top of the rail) we cut all the boards at once with a jigsaw. We need to do a smidge more cutting because our floor is a little wonky and one side drags. Ok, so your door is properly cut and sized. Now, you prop it up against your rail, and stand inside your doorway. With the trolley wheels slid inside the rail (you can see the bolt popping down by the Husbane’s hand) hold up your 2×4 and mark where the top and bottom need to be. Attach the board to your door with screws, making sure they don’t pop through the front. Step 7 – Drill holes for the bolts The hole needs to be large enough for the bolt to slide through. You can stick with the ones that come in the box with your trolley wheels, or get your own smaller ones (which is what we did). Step 8 – Attach your trolley wheels Slide your bolt through a washer and into the hole in your wheels, down through the board. We seemed to have picked bolts that were a little short, so we compensated by drilling a large “countersink” hole with a spade bit so we could get the nuts on. I’m going to pretend we did this on purpose to make the nuts more unobtrusive. You could do it this way too! Then you won’t have bolts popping through the backside of your door. Step 9 -Take gratuitous belly pictures of yourself in the mirror because you can’t believe how enormous you’ve become. For the realz. My shirts won’t even stay down these days! That pesky baby bump just keeps on growing. Oh, and you can see the catastrophe that is my closet. Seems the last owners thought nails would be enough to hold up the closet brackets. Uh, yeah no. The entire thing came crashing down Saturday afternoon. *sigh* Oh, and I’ve since put away all my folded laundry, which I love to do on an unmade bed. So yeah, we’re not perfect by any means!! Step 10 – Attach handle Oooooh, pretty! We picked up this hammered handle from Lowe’s. I kind of wish I’d found something with a little more character, but I was really eager to get this sucker up on the wall! Step 11 – Finishing Slide that sucker into your trolley rails, and be amazed! We had a little scratching to our paint due to the door sliding, so tonight we plan to pop this bad boy off and hot glue on a little scrap felt for easier gliding. I think I’m also going to try applying a wax to mute and antique that bright blue just a bit. We also have to straighten the bottom cut slightly. Once we’re sure we’re satisfied, we’ll drill one more screw into the far left side, to act as a doorstop. Then, it’s all ready to go!


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  1. Meredith @ This Texas Life

    Brilliant! We don’t have a door into our bathroom area too (at least there is one on the toilet room door!), so this would be an awesome fix. Although we have lived with it for 2 years now so who knows if we will actually do anything about it!

  2. Amanda

    I love it! I’m dying to do a barn door somewhere in our house, but so far none of the places I’m thinking will work (not enough room), so we’ll have to wait and see what happens. I love the blue stain. :)

  3. Noelle

    This is an awesome tutorial! I never thought of making a barn door myself, I thought you had to be lucky enough to find an old antique door! Love the blue too.

  4. kelsey

    Brooke, that is amazing!! I’m so impressed! I’ve loved these barn doors forever!

  5. Stacia

    I can’t decide which is better: barn door or baby belly?

    Okay. Baby belly. Hands down.

    You are so cute.

  6. Katie @ On the Banks of Squaw Creek

    I love the baby belly, too!

    Never seen a BLUE barn door! How totally fun! I wish we had a place for one in our house, but I’m afraid a barn door in a real farmhouse might be a little weird?

  7. Heather

    OK, um AMAZING! This is so cool! Bookmarking so I can come back when we (one day) own a house. :)

  8. Gina

    Brooke, I love this door. We’re in the planning stages of remodeling our Master Bathroom. I’ve been adamant about having a pocket door for the bathroom (we currently have a regular door, but it takes up too much space) and after seeing your post I think this door would be better. This door provides some architectural interest and would be so much easier than a pocket door. Actually, the walk-in close is on the same wall with a single door with a full-length mirror on the outside. I’d rather have two of these barn doors and convert the mirrored door to a standing mirror. Thanks for the Great Ideas!

    1. Notice: Trying to get property of non-object in /home3/killerbd/public_html/wp-content/themes/graphene/includes/theme-comments.php on line 266

      Thank you Gina! I think two doors in one room would look really nice, you’re so right about the architectural interest.

  9. Sarah

    Wow! I have to THANK YOU!!! for spending so much time and putting so much thought into your detailed tutorial, here! Actually, I can’t thank you enough!!! I have been trying to figure out, for a very long time, how to afford $$ to do this door between my master bed and bath. It’s a tiny bath and it’s on the tail-end of a long, drawn-out remodel.
    Although this barn door idea seems to be really catching on lately, for indoor home use, the hard-core barn door track & trolley systems are soooo darn expensive! Wow! I mean, the cheapest one I found was about $368, and of course that’s not including the cost of shipping a very heavy product. Then, hardware you find online is of course overpriced at around $100 or more. Yikes!

    I was just about to give up and step down my expectations and just do a simple bifold door into the bath. But…eew, not so attractive, and eventually they become a wobbly pain in the rear. Ugh!
    So…I am definitely, definitely, definitely going to Lowe’s, maybe even tomorrow, to pick up the parts needed, and get started on that door…unless I can find an old salvage/antique door, which I really hope I can.

    Without your very considerate post here, those of us out here who could never afford the fancy tracking that all other barn door idea pages are pointing you to, would just be out of luck.
    And, who says just because we don’t want to shell out like $600+ for a bathroom door, that we shouldn’t still be able to create one this cool “on the CHEAP”!!

    Sorry I did ramble here, but really…I couldn’t be any more excited and relieved than I am right now!
    It’s after 2am here, and I am so tired. I was literally about 2 mins from shutting down my search, and maybe giving up for good. So, again…THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

    :o) And…LOTS of congrats and well wishes to you and Husbane on your new addition. You ARE blessed. May you enjoy every moment – even those without sleep!

    1. I’m so glad I could help! Like you, we really wanted a barn door, but just don’t have the budget to spend $300-400 on an interior door. Or really, any one piece of home improvement! I totally credit my handy hubby on this one, when we went to Lowe’s to brainstorm our options he’s the one who figured out the cheap and easy way to get it done. I’m so glad you’re able to now build your own! Post us a photo when you’re done, I’d love to see how yours turns out!

      1. Sarah

        I sure will post a finished pic!
        I’ve never posted a project online, but since this whole bathroom has turned out so great…I think I wanna post some before & afters…and I will surely include the Pièce de Résistance…my door! I’ll copy it here too, so others can see how great your design is.

  10. nick

    looks great, gonna try and build something similar this week

  11. nick

    Oh yeah glad I found a cheaper alternative to the expensive hardware!

  12. Jami

    Shut your face! I swear we are the same people! I’m making a barn door for the nursery but I’m going to try a little different approach, I’m glad you guys found a cheaper alternate. If our plans don’t pan out I’ll be checking out your route!

    1. I think we’re definitely blog twins!!

  13. debbie

    I love your barn door, it looks great.

    1. Thank you Debbie! We love it too <3

  14. Rebecca

    Ok so this is perfect for our closet door solution for our office to 4th bedroom conversion (10 weeks til our little bundle arrives!). I’m a little concerned about the bottom of the door though…is that where yours is rubbing and taking off paint? Is it sturdy in the single rail system or is the bottom of the door hitting on the wall?

    1. It actually doesn’t touch the wall at all, probably because the rail is so stiff? I solved any rubbing at the top by hot-gluing a piece of felt along the top edge. You could do the same thing along the bottom if it starts trying to rub the wall. But so far no issues at all with stability. As long as you screw the rail into a few studs, you should be fine

  15. Patricia Olson

    Thank you for a wonderful idea. I just purchased my grandmother’s house and am renovating much of the interior. I’m trying to get a bath and a half out of one bathroom and the doors were causing me problems. This is a great solution to give me more space in the bathrooms and not have the doors swinging out into the living area.

  16. Amanda

    I was all set to make my own barn door, per your instructions, but I found a reclaimed one at our local architectural salvage. I got the hardware and door for $250, which isn’t much more than you paid, and I don’t have the hassle of trying to find the time to do it, although I do need to take a few inches off the bottom. I am very happy that I didn’t have to spend $500 to buy new. If people are not wanting to do it themselves, they should totally check into salvaged doors.

  17. Danielle Smith

    I love the look of these doors but yes the hardware is so expensive plus I too am impatient.. I am trying this idea. Thank you so much

  18. Miss Charming

    Wow! This turned out so great! I love the look and the two color finishes.

    1. Thank you! We’re still in love with the colors too

  19. Chris m

    Thank you! This is great! Is there a handle on the other side too?

    1. Actually there’s not, I didn’t want it to rub up against the wall

  20. Liza

    Thank you!!!
    1. How much did your door weigh (trying to figure out how much weight thus system could hold)

    2. What color and brand is the blue and brown that you used.

    Again thank you!!!

    1. 1. Um, my guess would be around 30 pounds. But you can probably ask the Lowe’s rep in that section and they can look up just how much the trolley can hold, because I’m guessing it’s much more than 30 pounds. Those bolts are pretty stout.

      2. Minwax for both, the brown is Polyshades in Walnut, and the blue came in a tube like paint almost. I don’t remember it’s name, but it’s the only kind in the tube

      Glad you like it!

      1. darcy

        did you get the tube paint at Lowe’s ? blue is my fave color and I have 4 doors that need to be made :)) I can’t wait to do this :))))) thank you

        1. I think I got the Minwax blue stain at Home Depot. Lowe’s may carry it as well though!

  21. Holly J

    We are finishing our basement and needed a door between the living area and laundry room. I have had your tutorial pinned for months because I knew I had to have this type of door. Well we started yesterday and with the help of your tutorial it was a breeze for my husband to complete. We have a few minor things left to do to make it perfect but I just wanted to say THANK YOU for taking the time to create the tutorial it was so helpful!!

    1. Why thank you Holly! I’m so glad you found it helpful and were able to build your own door!

  22. Virginia

    Love this! Did you use one hanger or two? I’m pricing it out online and noticed the price for one is what you said you used total, so I don’t know if I’m looking at the right stuff.

    1. I used one hangar. The trolley includes a rail and a hanging kit for $60.

  23. Terry Chenowith

    Good afternoon! My wife and I can never agree on anything… well not much anyway. But we both love this idea. We have a cat that likes to scratch our furnature which we haven’t been able to make him stop when we leave for the weekend. My solution is to get rid of the cat but as you can imagine the cat is staying. Long story short this dorr will be perfect toisolate the cat away from the furnature in another part of the house. My only question for you is. The wood did you also get that at Lowes? If not where did you get it? Thanks again for posting this! I love it. it’s perfect!

    1. Hi Terry,
      The wood is pine beadboard paneling from Home Depot. I think it was somewhere around $6/stick. It was tongue and groove, so we used glue and some metal banding to hold it all together. I know how you feel about the cat, my husband has a red heeler that’s pretty much the bane of my existence when it comes to cleaning up all that shed hair!

      1. Terry Chenowith

        Awesome thank you, thank you thank you. You are not only a designer extrodinair but also a marrige saver LOL This door is going to save my marriage LOL. My wifes cat is orange with long hair so I feel you about red and all the sheding hair. Keep up the great work. in case anyone wants to know the Model # 8203009
        Store SKU # 957348 for the wood planks are included in this. At Home Depot.

  24. Robert

    Are the wheels noisy/loud when you slide the door??? That was a concern I always had with building a interior barn door.
    Your design is awesome!!!!
    Thanks for sharing

    1. The wheels are quiet and not squeaky at all, but the door wood at the top scraped on the rail and peeled off the paint. So I hot glued a little felt to the back of it and touched up the paint, and now it’s pretty much perfect.

  25. Robert

    are the wheels noisy/loud when you slide the door???

  26. Amy

    We are currently building a door based on this design for a similar type opening. On the left side of the door, does light come through under the 2×4? Is there anything you would recommend to keep light from peeking through? In our situation, we are turning a formal living into a bedroom and the opening is between the formal living and the kitchen. Also, does the door hang straight – have you had any problems with an wobbles with the door?

    1. The door has no problem hanging straight or wobbling, because we made sure to level the top when we installed the trolley wheels. Light does peek through a bit for us, but that’s mainly because we built the door out of 1×6’s, and used a 2×4 at the top to hold the bolts of the wheels. So there’s a gap on the sides where the light comes through. If you want it light tight, I would recommend adding boards all the way around the back so the door always sits flush on the wall. I hot-glued some felt onto the parts that touch the walls and top rail so the sliding motion doesn’t scratch or peel off any paint.

  27. Amy

    I’m also curious what keeping the door from coming off the end of the track?

    1. We drilled an extra hole at the end of the track to insert a bolt so the door doesn’t slide all the way off. We just pop it out whenever we need to take it off for some reason or another

      1. Amy

        Thank you for your quick replies. We are enjoying the project and hope to have it done soon.

  28. Caitlin

    Were you able to find all of your hardware at Lowes…
    Also how did you do the location of the trolley/hanger with just one, I don’t want to mess it up!?

    1. Hi Caitlin! Yes, all our hardware was at Lowe’s, and we purchased the wood paneling at Home Depot to make the door. For the positioning, we knew it needed to go all the way to the end wall, so we positioned it there at the top and my husband held it in place. I used a stud finder and permanent marker to mark the stud positions on the rail so we could drill the holes. We drilled them a little wider than necessary so we’d have a little wiggle room. Once the door is up (and we sprayed our trolley with oil-rubbed bronze paint so it would be darker) you can hardly see the holes. Does that help? Or do you have another question? I hope I explained it right…

      1. Caitlin

        Would you be able to take a picture of the back (top) side of your door where the hardware is attached?
        I’m having trouble visualizing it–I’m off to Lowes now though (fingers crossed!) :)

        1. Here’s what the back of the door looks like where the hardware is attached: http://www.killerbdesigns.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/IMG_4290.jpg

          We chose to add the 2×4 as our “hardware holder” because we wanted to hide the trolley wheels completely and have the door extend up past the rail up to the ceiling. If you don’t mind the look of the wheels, you can make the 2×4 the top of your door. Good luck on your project! It can be a bit of trial and error to customize it to your space, but it sounds like you’ve done your research!

  29. Caitlin

    One more dumb question…but could you explain the … L-frame anchor plate? Where/when did you put it?

    Thanks so much!!!

    1. Since our door butts up to a corner (it’s not a flat wall) we added an L bracket to attach the trolley rail from the back wall to the side wall. This image shows it best for how/where we attached it to the trolley: http://www.killerbdesigns.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/IMG_4284.jpg.

      If you don’t have a corner (if your door is on a straight wall and won’t meet an edge) you can skip the bracket. We really only used it because it adds extra stability anchoring it to the perpendicular wall.

      1. Caitlin

        Thanks so much that really helped!!!
        I just got back and your idea about the spray paint was great too-I saw some I really like!!

        Can’t wait to have it all done I’m so impatient!!!

  30. jacqueline

    Thanks for your post. I too have been looking for an affordable way to do a barn door and stumbled on your post as a result. Great idea that you and your husband figured it out and thanks so much for sharing.
    One thing I cannot figure out is how to mount the track. It appears that the groove of the track hangs down –and the rollers sit inside the groove. If I picture this correctly it means in order to mount the track one would have to drill holes through both sides of the track and bolt it to the wall that way (so the grove hangs down). But, how do you make sure the rollers have enough room if the bolt is going through the entire track? And how long is the bolt that you use to mount it to the wall. Maybe I am not picturing this correctly. Thanks

    1. Hi Jacqueline, you’re right on the assembly! However, the bolts don’t go through the entire track. We drilled a larger hole for the screw to pass through the front of the trolley, and a smaller one so it could go into the wall. Does that make sense? The trolley is strong enough to support itself with a screw only through the back metal piece. You don’t even notice the larger hole on the front of the rail.

      1. jacqueline

        Ohhh – thanks for your reply – that makes total sense… clever. You are very clever…. love your blog… so fun..

        1. jacqueline

          If you don’t mind I have one more question. You put a 2×4 on the door and put the roller into that. I suspect that the width of the 2×4 and the door are perfect to line up with the width of the track. I’d like to do a reclaimed door and it will be a bit thicker than your door. So should I still use the 2×4 or should I get the other kind of roller that hooks right onto the door? Like this one at Ace –

          1. jacqueline

            ohhh -I think I answered my own question… the 2×4 is the perfect width for the track…and it keeps the door slightly off the wall when you slide it… so I should use the same roller… got it…

          2. One thing I added to the top of the door that’s not in this post: Since I painted the trolley with spraypaint, the part of the door that protrudes up past the trolley would rub some of the paint off. So I hot glued some scrap fabric (it was felt, but any thick type fabric should work) to that part of the wood so it wouldn’t rub. You won’t have this issue if you want to keep your door flush to the bottom of the trolley, though. Only if you want it above it, like ours. Very cool find at Ace though!

  31. Amy

    Okay, so we made a few errors. First, I didn’t have your list of where you bought things so we ended up with paneling (1/4″) from Lowe’s and didn’t realize what we had done until after staining and getting ready to assemble. So, we are working with it. We had to put a 1×4 at the bottom under the metal plate and our metal plate at the top goes into the 2×4. It means our metal plate had to become more than decorative – it’s functional holding this door together and giving it stability w/ the wood underneath. Looks good and very light weight. But, we have a problem in the fact the door will not pass over the hardware on the right side (we thought hanging it with the hardware would be easier). Oops. We think we have a solution by anchoring it at the right corner vs. having the bracket (on the right side). Hopefully, it will be fully functional tonight and we’ll get the handle on too.

    1. Amy

      I was trying to post a picture with my comments above. or link: http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/wilsonta1/Barn%20Door/?action=view&current=barn-door.jpg

      1. Holy cow it looks FANTASTIC! You did a fabulous job! I’m so glad my tutorial helped you. That stain choice was perfect for your room too. Looking forward to hearing that it works!

        1. Amy

          Thank you. It was due to your wonderful tutorial that we were able to do this for so little money. We also painted the track, bolts and hardware black. We couldn’t find the metal plate back in decking so we literally just bought a metal plate and drilled holes in it, but it seems to work great. Like I mentioned above in another comment, we turned a formal living into a bedroom so we needed the door to close off the kitchen beyond. This is such a great solution. Thanks again for the wonderful tutorial. I will update when we finish the details (felt and all).

        2. Amy

          WORKING BEAUTIFULLY. We removed the bracket on the right and mounted it at the end of the rail like you showed (with a hole drilled through the front of the rail). We also drilled a hole at the top on the left side & put in a bolt for a stop way before it gets to the bracket on the left. That way, the door only opens about 1-2″ past the opening. I put a little piece of felt on the trim where the door meets it at the bottom right. THANKS AGAIN!!! http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/wilsonta1/Barn%20Door/?action=view&current=IMG_6901.jpg

        3. Amy

          Here is the backside (from the kitchen). You can see where we added the felt on the 1×4 at the bottom, but otherwise, it seems to match great!!! http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/wilsonta1/Barn%20Door/?action=view&current=IMG_6903.jpg

  32. Stacy

    I love the barn door. Can’t wait to sit down and view your other project ideas.

  33. patsy Klein

    I was wondering if this hardware could be used for outdoor use?


    1. Definitely! You may want to check out Tractor Supply (if you have one where you live) or something similar to see if there are galvanized options. But a trolley track like this should hold up well over time.

  34. Kyle

    I can’t seem to find the trolley hardware at lowes. Would you happen to have a part number(s) for them? Or a link to the lowes website. I searched trolley but found nothing. I’d really like to do this!

    1. I don’t have a link, but I plan on making a trip to Lowes today. I’ll find what we used and email the part number to you!

    2. Amy

      Here’s the info on it (they call it a box track) and it’s made by Stanley hardware. We recently found it at Lowe’s so I know they have it: http://www.stanleyhardware.com/default.asp?TYPE=CATEGORY&CATEGORY=HDW+BARN+BOX+TRACK

      1. Thanks so much for providing the info Amy!

  35. jill wilhelm

    I LOVE your door! We just moved into our home and our bathroom is small and the door (when opened) makes it much smaller! I am so going to do this. We have the perfect space in the hall to slide it! I have been to many of your posts tonight and I am looking forward to your. Future posts!!


  36. Veronica

    This is such a great article! I’ve been researching sliding & barn doors all morning and was getting overwhelmed by the prices I was finding (or the fact that you had request quotes on items which to me means $$$$). I have a small house on the lake that we’ve completed gutted and are putting back together piece by piece. lol. I’m trying to be as smart with the space as possible since its small. I am hoping to use this for the bathroom in the hallway. I’m using tiger strand bamboo flooring so I’m trying to come up with a door style that as an eastern flair. Just wanted to post a thank you for now, I may be back with questions! :-)

    1. Hahaha, I’m so glad you found me! I was the same way, nearly choking on the price of barn door hardware. You can also do a quick search for galvanized pipe barn doors. I’ve seen some on the blogosphere where they use pipe flanges and fittings, like this one: http://whatthegraham.com/?p=3074#comment-4457 . Another affordable way to get the look!

  37. Faye

    Thank you, Thank you , Thank you …… love the door and your creativity and thanks a lot for sharing it so beautifully ( great tutorial )

  38. Barbara

    Okay, this door looks as though it’s going to solve my current problem beautifully! My contractors made my master bath a foot too narrow, making it difficult to work around the inward opening door to get to the shower. Although it’s an option, I think an outward opening door is awkward. Although this project looks challenging……. I’m such a whimp!!

  39. Chris

    Hi! Actually, box track doesn’t show up on lowes.com either. I’d love to have the part # or additional info on the “trolley rail” you used. Your door looks awesome!

    1. It may not be available online. Have you tried looking at your local store? It’s in the hardware section, usually about halfway down the aisle near the door hardware. You could also ask your local rep what they have. I’ve seen people source these rails at farm supply stores like Tractor Supply

  40. jaclynn

    Amazing! Want to come do mine?

    1. Ooooh, does that mean you would babysit? Then YES! haha 😉

  41. Sharon Cardona

    We found the track at Tractor Supply (thanks to the suggestions in above comment!!), thank goodness because we thought we weren’t going to be able to do this since our Lowe’s (Cincinnati) no longer carries them.

    Our project is to replace a previously installed standard hinged door to go into a small office so it has the trim molding. So we hung our plain wood door with the 2×4, but the door is further from the wall on top than on the bottom, creating a weird, uneven vertical gap between the molded door frame and the door. Any suggestions? We’re going to need to raise our 2×4 so we can lower the door and we’re going to add small trim decorative molding too (now its just a big boring piece of wood). Were you able to put a door handle on both sides of the door?

    1. A couple of options are to put a 1×3 on the bottom of the door, to kind of fill in that gap. I say 1x instead of 2x because of the amount that your baseboard will stick out from the wall too. You can hot glue some felt onto that spacer so it doesn’t scratch the wall. As for the handle, I didn’t use one on the back of ours. But you could experiment with adding a knob or slim handle so you can open it more easily from the inside

  42. Ashley

    Hi!! Just wanted to tell you that I LOVED your door idea! Used it in my house and I get soooooo many compliments! Thank you for sharing! I put a link to you on my blog!

    1. I’m so happy it worked for y’all! Enjoy that silence :)

  43. Mrs. White Twig & Tea

    Hi Killer b! What an awesome blue sliding door. I’m planning to do something similar for my master bathroom and your tutorial is really great. So great, that I included a link to your site in my post today. Thanks, Angela from Mrs. White Twig & Tea

  44. Tom

    Hi Killer B

    I know it’s been a while since you completed this project but I’m in the process of making 3 of these barn doors for my basement remodel and I’m curious as to the type (assume wood flat head?), thread (#6, 8 or 10) and length (1″, 2″?) of screw yall used to attach the rail to the studs?

    Just want to make sure I buy the right type so the screws don’t impede the flow of the wheels in the track & echoing what everyone else has said, thanks much for posting this guide!

    1. We used 3″ drywall screws to secure the bar to the wall. I’m glad it’s a useful guide for you!

    2. Tom

      Update: I Included 2 barn doors (1 for utility/laundry room off kitchen & 1 for passage way) in my basement remodel. Thanks

  45. Heather

    Thank you for this awesome tutorial! My husband and I gutted our 37sqft tiny master bathroom. We needed a different door because the door was nearly hitting the toilet. A pocket door couldn’t work, so I was pumped when I saw your wall mount sliding barn door. The bathroom turned out awesome and we needed a stylish door to match. I went bold like you. I stained my cedar tongue-n-groove door a light teal. I love pops of color. Our house is coastal chic. I had trouble finding a track at Lowe’s. I ordered one online from Home Depot, Johnson Hardware 2610F for $50. My only hang up was the bottom of the door was hitting the baseboard. I think my cedar was a little bowed at the bottom. So I put a nonswivel single caster wheel at the bottom so it could glide easily and quietly. It worked perfectly. My friends and family are impressed, my husband too! Me too. And it’s all because of your generosity and attention to detail. Thank you! :) I would love to share some pics but I’m not sure how I could post them. My total cost was $175. I’m so happy with the finished product. Love it, love it, love it! Thank you. :)

    1. Could you post them on my Facebook page wall? Or you could email them to me and I could feature it! I’m so happy it turned out well. And that you chose a fun color! So glad the tutorial was of help to you, that’s the main goal of my blog!

    2. woodworking sprite

      a small u bracket the thickness of your door screwed into the floor will not only guide it and keep it off the wall it will keep the door from moving in and out on the track making it operate smoother.

  46. Heather

    I can email them to you. I can’t find your email on the site. What is it? Thank you!

    1. brooke@killerbdesigns.com Can’t wait to see it! I’ll have to fix that and post that email where it’s easily found.

  47. santiago

    super amazing project, but just a side note that if your using scrap lumber, you should never use pressure treated lumber (green looking wood) inside the house because it emits toxic gases and fumes that are really bad for you. all that aside im gonna use your idea :)

    1. Great reminder Santiago! It always gives me a shiver when I see pallet wood used in nurseries or dining tables. I suppose the same should be said for reclaimed fencing, which I enjoy using indoors. Perhaps I should keep all that outside in the future

  48. Joseph Russell

    Hey guys couple quick questions for you.

    (1) Mounting: doesn’t the wheels on the hangers hit your screws or bolts you used to mount it to the wall? I look and there is barely any room between the wheel and the side of the rail.

    (2) What keeps your door straight (up and down that is)? Or is it at an angle?

    1. Hi Joseph! Here’s what we did:
      1) Mounting: the wheels don’t catch at all. We used screws with a flat head and they hardly even register. It holds the rail up well without catching on the wheels.
      2) It’s not entirely straight, it tucks in more toward the wall. If you want it completely straight, you can add a matching block to the bottom of the door as you did the top. Just add a piece of felt or soft matching fabric to the block so it doesn’t rub your walls or baseboards.

      I hope that helps!

  49. Nicolette Stevens

    I love this and just called my hubby to tell him about it. We have a formal dining room that his been converted to his “man cave” but we need a door to cover the 5 ft entryway. Just priced the basic barn door hardware and it was $525.00 (but w/ free shipping…lol) that didn’t even include a door. You have just saved us a lot of money and given us a great weekend project.

  50. Marcie Leier

    Just a question in regards to the Step 8 picture. Do the trolley wheels swivel at all? It just looks like they are right up against the wood for the door and I am wondering how there was enough room between the two to be able to insert the wheels into the box rail.

    1. There’s a lot of play in the wheels, they swivel 360 degrees. So you’ll have more than enough flexibility to insert them into the rail.

      1. Marcie Leier

        Thanks so much for the quick reply!

  51. Cheryl

    My hubby and I are doing the same thing with a sliding door between his music room and the spare bedroom so that when his friends come over, we can open the door and fill both rooms with great musicians! We love the indoor barn door idea and want to thank you for some great money saving tips as we don’t have a lot of money and are buying pieces by paydays. Can’t wait to see the finished product! Thanks again for your great ideas!

    1. I’m glad the tutorial was helpful!

  52. George

    Having a hard time finding the boards you used. Can you please be specific as to where you purchased them and possibly model/sku? As much detail as possible on the wood please.

    1. George these are tongue and groove boards from Home Depot. I can’t seem to find them online, their websites are awful. They are 1x6x8′ dimensions.

      1. Joseph Russell

        Home Depot’s site is the worst for sure. I do all my shopping at lowes. I think this is what you’re looking for http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-202106509/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=paneling&storeId=10051#product_description

        These are not 1″ x 6″ but paneling never is.

        I ended up using white wood from Lowes and cut them to size.

        1. Joseph Russell

          After looking again I do notice that your planks are thicker. Call the store and give them this Sku http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100085193/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=groove+planks&storeId=10051

  53. John Slaughter

    I would like to make new stable doors for a horse. What would be an economical but sturdy way of doing this? Thanks

  54. Vicky

    What goes on the bottom of the door?

  55. Ani

    Hi Killer B….
    Thank you for this awesome tutorial. My teen daughter has a closet that had closet doors that never allowed you to see the entire closet content. (two doors that slide over each other but never get completely out of the way). I knew I wanted to do barn doors but couldn’t find ANY information on how to do under $500 until I came across your post. I followed all of your instructions and it came out beautifully. Thank you again…..I love the internet!

    1. Brooke

      That’s awesome! Stories like this are what makes blogging worth it. I’m so glad it helped!

  56. Jan

    we already have a door with a handle to use. Can you post a quick list of just the rail system hardware you bought at Lowes?

    1. Brooke

      Jan, unfortunately Lowes has stopped carrying trolley rail systems, but you can still buy them at other farm supply stores like Tractor Supply or McCoys rail: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/national-hardwarereg%3B-5116-box-rail-galvanized-8-ft?cm_vc=-10005 hangers: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/national-hardwarereg%3B5005-box-rail-hanger-zinc

  57. Dawn

    What do you do about a lock on the door? We are going to do this on a small powder room and definitely need a lock. Thanks!

    1. Brooke

      I would think a hook and eye should work well in that case

    2. Joseph Russell

      I used a simple gate lock. I mounted the post to the door frame and the latch to the door mounted on a small wooden block. it allows you to press the lock open from the outside, while provided enough security for someone doing their business. Its just like the one in the link, but black. You can buy them at any hardware store.


  58. Debi

    I am building a house and REALLY love this type of door! I even told the builder to leave off the closet and bathroom doors in both master bedrooms. I’m literally chomping at the bit to get started! I’ve been wrestling with the idea to keep the doors matching, but may go with a window-type door for the closets (NOT the bathrooms –haha). We can make the glass opaque (in case we don’t keep the closet as tidy as some may do), so the closet light can also serve as a night light, if needed.

    I LOVE your tutorial and will be oming back for more!!!

  59. Aaron

    Amazing job Killer B, thanks so much for sharing your project. I wanted to make the sliding quiet by adding felt as well. I’m just wondering how that has held up – if there has been any bunching, etc to impinge the function of the door? Thanks in advance for any follow up!

    1. Brooke

      Hi Aaron, I’m sorry I can’t answer your question, we ended up selling the home when we moved across state. It did hold up for over a year though, without bunching. I would think as long as you use firm felt and secure it properly it should stay put.

  60. Rebecca

    Hi! I am looking for a solution to put a framed mirror on a barn door track, for access into a deep cabinet on the wall. I hope to hang a matching mirror to the left of the tracked mirror, and wonder if there will be enough space for the tracked mirror to slide over and across the mirror hanging on the wall. Also, I am concerned about the tracked mirror swinging as it won’t be attached to anything at the bottom. Ideas?

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