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$5000 Handbuilt Vintage Kitchen – The Budget Breakdown

A kitchen can be one of the priciest rooms to renovate or build. People regularly spend tens of thousands of dollars on their “heart of the home”. I knew from the start that I wanted to save money without compromising on quality. So how does one do that? With a lot of DIY, time to wait for the best deals, and working around the system. Anyway, you’ve all seen the pictures. Let’s get down to business!

Budget Breakdown:

Vintage Gas Range –  450 (1950′s Magic Chef found on Craigslist in perfect working condition)
Refrigerator – 965 (We already owned this refrigerator, purchased from the as-is section at Lowes
Dishwasher – 505 (I scored it on mega-sale at Best Buy as a open item)
Vintage Cast Iron Sink – 275 (We found the sink for $50 on Craigslist and paid $225 to have it resurfaced)
Stained Concrete Flooring – 460 (this is an estimate based on the square footage of our kitchen, the whole house has stained floors
Island Misc Supplies – 50 (beadboard, trim and 3 legs)
Cabinets – 825 (this includes Purebond Plywood, trim, door lumber, hinges, door slides and paint, built from scratch)
Island Top – 565 (20 gauge stainless steel fabricated from a local welder, Galisco Welding)
Countertops – 300 (IKEA Numerar butcher block countertops)
Shelving – 150 (7 sets of Cable Shelf Brackets from the Container Store, free reclaimed oak from my dad’s barn stash)
Hardware – 20 (two packs of 10 knobs for $10 each from Target)
Faucet – 100 (Overstock.com Wall Mount Kitchen Faucet)
Pendants – 60 (IKEA Ottava pendants)
Pendant converters – 50 (two kits to convert can lights to pendant lights)
Island electrical – 15 (supplies to build in plugs in the island)
Venthood – 120
Veggie cabinet – 45 
Dishwasher trim – 15 (Kickplate and trim around dishwasher)
Venthood cover – 30 (one quarter sheet of 1/2″ plywood and 1×2 trim)

Total – 5000

And to answer a few pending questions…

The color of the island is Olympic’s Burning Bush. It’s utterly glorious. The absolute perfect shade of red, not too cherry, not too maroon. I brushed on three coats of paint followed by three coats of polyurethane.

 

The cabinet color is Grey Marble by Olympic. Again, I brushed on three coats of paint then three coats of poly.

 

This range was a rather risky buy. It had already been disconnected when I picked it up, but I trusted the seller on an instinct. It worked out in my favor, but I think it’s probably wise to test it before you buy it! Luckily all the burners work and there are no leaks. Still, to be on the safe side, I turn the gas on and off before and after cooking, never leaving it on. It’s a minor inconvenience (the shut off valve is located in the lower cabinet) to ensure that we don’t run the risk of a slow leak of gas. Call me crazy, but sometimes I like to stay on the safe side, especially when it only costs a few extra seconds of time. Also, as I live in the country and not on city gas mains, I called our local propane provider to make the orifice adjustments for me (converting it from natural gas to liquid propane). Doing it improperly can cause carbon monoxide poisoning, so it’s not anything I’m comfortable trying myself since I’m unexperienced with servicing antique gas appliances ;) Keep that in mind if you plan on purchasing a vintage or antique gas appliance.

The sink was my pride and joy. I searched for months online and at antique shops looking for just the right one. I wanted one with a drainboard, and a unique feel to it. I found this one for $50 outside College Station and it was rather worse for wear in the photo. However when we cleaned it up we found that the rust didn’t damage any of the metal, which was awesome! My FIL is a plumber and recommended a great resurfacer, who cleaned up the sink and patched the damaged areas for a very affordable $225. Getting a sink re-enameled can cost upwards of $4-500, so I was thrilled to stay under my $300 budget overall. These sinks aren’t easily found, so be ready to look for a while. Trust me, it’s worth the wait!

I am head over heels in love with this floor. It’s stained concrete by Artistic Impressions, in their walnut color. I love how varied all the tones are, it’s so much more interesting to me than tile or wood. At just $2.60 per square foot (stain, sealer, buffing and wax) it’s a total bargain for this luxe look. I’m so, so glad we hired out for this. They really make the space look so much more polished!

I hope I’ve answered all your questions. If you’re curious about any finishes or prices, leave me a comment or pop me an email and I’ll be sure to reply. And thank you so much for your support along the way! It means so much to me.

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  1. Sunny

    Your kitchen is beautiful and I’m soo jealous of your floors. We looked into it for our basement and it was going to be $7-$8/sf. I do not understand why its so much more here, but oh well I guess we’ll go with normal flooring :)

    1. Wow, that is a really big price jump! You can always look into doing it yourself should you feel comfortable. Though nothing’s wrong with “normal” flooring either!

  2. Liz (@_elouise)

    The floors look so good with the cabinetry and counter tops in your kitchen! Great job :)

  3. Yuliya

    looks great! what was the original dimension of the plywood? home depot’s website has 2×4 and it seems to me that it will produce a lot of waste.
    Any chance you can guesstimate a price per one 2 doors floor cabinet?:-)
    did you use the same plywood for doors and drawers?
    I need to estimate the price somehow and see how it compares to ikea’s cabinets.

    1. Hm. I’m not sure which plywood you mean, for the carcasses, or the doors? For the cabinet boxes I used 4′ x 8′ 3/4″ plywood, ripped into two 22.5″ strips. The scrap piece was used for the braces, so it was a very efficient cut diagram. Since I was making 11 doors, I bought a half sheet of 1/4″ plywood, so 2′ x 4′. That was enough for all my door backing. I built 10 cabinets (with several shelves and drawers) for $800, including hardware, slides and paint. That comes out to roughly $80ish per cabinet, and that’s with the thick stuff all the way through. No particle board, super solid construction. Plus they’re formaldehyde free. You’ll have more of a time investment, but in the end you’re getting a much nicer, quality cabinet for less money. It’s a win-win!

      1. Yuliya

        sorry I wasn’t clear. I meant the 3/4″ plywood for the frame. I googled purebond plywood and homedepot said that they have 2′x4′ sheets. I think 4×8 will be way more efficient. I guess I just need to go and see what HomeDepot or Lowes have in store, rather than the website. where did you buy your plywood?
        how do you like your ikea’s countertops? we were considering them also, but I was wondering how easily they get stained if the wine spills or something else that stain surfaces.
        Love your open shelves, but I am terrified of the upkeep of those and all the dust they are going to collect, at least in our house I don’t think it will fly:-)
        Thank you very much for all the details! Very impressive work and looks great.

        1. Yuliya

          hmm, I am googling it and it only comes up in Homedepot and they only have 2′x4′:-(

          1. Yuliya

            lol, I must be having a dumb day:-) if you cut 4′x8′ on the 22.5 wide strips that I will get exactly the same result from 2′x4′ pieces:-)

          2. PureBond can only be found at Home Depot, not Lowes. You should call your local store, I find hardware websites practically useless! So hard to navigate and never accurate. A 2′ x 4′ sheet would not be enough to make a cabinet. I used a full sheet (sometimes more, depending on shelves and width) for each cabinet. You should check out Ana’s website for the diagrams. Also, you don’t *have* to use PureBond, though it is competitively priced. Any cabinet-grade ply would do.

        2. I’m totally in love with the countertops so far. I’ve spilled coffee AND wine, and had no problems. I sealed them with 2 coats of the oil IKEA sells for them, and even left water sit on them too long while doing dishes with no stains yet. Also, you can stain them darker, and router the edges for a beautiful custom finish! Check out Pinterest for some ideas. And thank you for the compliments! I love this kitchen :)

          1. Yuliya

            good to know ( about the cabinets)!
            well if you cut 4×8 onto 22.5 inch strips you’ll end up with four 22.5″x4′, right? so if I get four 2′x4′ it will be the same, I assume. I will just have to shave 1.5″ off the width and will have exactly same pieces.

  4. carey

    I love this so much! I found you from Ana White’s site, and I just had to tell you how much I love your kitchen. My husband and I just bought our first home, which is a 100 + year old house that was last updated (and not done very well) in the late 40′s. Needless to say we will be ripping out everything and rebuilding the kitchen pretty much from top to bottom. It is super helpful to see your price breakdown, since we’ll definitely be doing it on a budget!

    1. Brooke

      Thank you Carey! You can definitely do a nice kitchen on a budget.

  5. Sarah

    OMG, THANK YOU for this. I want to build all my own cabinets and my friends think I’m nuts. It is so helpful to have examples of people who have done this and been successful (and built beautiful spaces to boot!). Your kitchen looks amazing!

    1. Brooke

      Thank you Sarah! I’m glad it’s going to be a help to you. A few others have posted brags of the kitchen they built with Ana’s plans. Be sure to check out this one as well http://ana-white.com/2013/07/kitchen-renovation-thanks-ana-white

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